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Salem, Massachusetts
City
Federal Street District House of the Seven Gables Peabody Essex Museum Salem Maritime National Historic Site Salem Willows Aerial view of downtown Salem
Flag Seal
Nicknames:  The Witch City, The City of Witches, Pleasure City
Motto:  Divitis Indiae usque ad ultimum sinum (Latin: To the farthest port of the rich Indies)
Location in Essex County, Massachusetts
Salem, Massachusetts Location in the United States
Coordinates: 42°31′10″N 70°53′50″W / 42.51944°N 70.89722°W / 42.51944; -70.89722
Country	United States
State	Massachusetts
County	Essex
Settled	1626
Incorporated	1629
City	1836
Founded by	Roger Conant
Government
• Type	Mayor-council city
• Mayor	Dominick Pangallo (D)
Area
• Total	18.30 sq mi (47.40 km)
• Land	8.29 sq mi (21.48 km)
• Water	10.01 sq mi (25.92 km)
Elevation	26 ft (8 m)
Population  (2020)
• Total	44,480
• Density	5,363.0/sq mi (2,070.66/km)
Time zone	UTC−5 (Eastern)
• Summer (DST)	UTC−4 (Eastern)
ZIP Code	01970
Area codes	351, 978
FIPS code	25-59105
GNIS feature ID	0614337
Website	www.salemma.gov

Salem (, SAY-ləm) is a historic coastal city in Essex County, Massachusetts, United States, located on the North Shore of Greater Boston. Continuous settlement by Europeans began in 1626 with English colonists. Salem was one of the most significant seaports trading commodities in early American history. Prior to the dissolution of county governments in Massachusetts in 1999, it served as one of two county seats for Essex County, alongside Lawrence.

Today, Salem is a residential and tourist area that is home to the House of Seven Gables, Salem State University, Pioneer Village, the Salem Maritime National Historic Site, Salem Willows Park, and the Peabody Essex Museum. It features historic residential neighborhoods in the Federal Street District and the Charter Street Historic District. The city’s population was 44,480 at the 2020 census.

Salem is widely noted for the Salem witch trials of 1692, which strongly informs the city’s cultural identity into the present. Some of Salem’s police cars are adorned with witch logos, a public elementary school is known as Witchcraft Heights, and the Salem High School athletic teams are named the Witches. Gallows Hill was originally believed to be the site of the executions during the Witch Trials, but in 2016 a site nearby called Proctor’s Ledge was identified as the true site of the executions. Gallows Hill now serves as a city park. Salem is also the birthplace of the National Guard, which first mustered at the Salem Common in 1636.

Native Americans lived in northeastern Massachusetts for thousands of years prior to European colonization of the Americas. The peninsula that would become Salem was known as Naumkeag (alternate spellings Naemkeck, Nahumkek, Neumkeage) by the Native people who lived there at the time of contact in the early 1600s. Naumkeag was a major settlement for the Indigenous group that controlled territory from the Merrimack to the Mystic rivers. The English and other Europeans referred to them as the Naumkeag people. There are probable Indigenous settlement sites near the mouths of the North, South, and Forest rivers in Salem.

The contact period was a disastrous time for the Naumkeag. Many Naumkeag died in a war with the Tarrantine and as a result of a smallpox epidemic in 1617–1619, including their powerful sachem Nanepashemet. The disease had probably been contracted by members who came into contact with European fishermen or explorers. Their strength was reduced just prior to the arrival of English settlers in 1626 to what became modern-day Salem. In 1633, a second smallpox epidemic struck, killing two of Nanepashemet’s successors, Montowompate and Wonohaquaham, and leaving his remaining heir Wenepoykin scarred. So it was that English settlers met little resistance on their arrival in Salem. Although Wenepoykin would join Metacomet in King Philip’s War in 1675, the English settlers at this point had the numerical superiority to defeat Metacomet’s Indigenous coalition.

It was not until 1686, when the Massachusetts Bay Colony Charter was recalled by King James II in the creation of the Dominion of New England that Wenepoykin’s heirs pressed their claim to the land of Salem, for which they were paid twenty pounds.

Colonists settled in Naumkeag in 1626 when a company of fishermen arrived from Cape Ann led by Roger Conant. Conant’s leadership provided the stability for the settlers to survive the first two years, but John Endecott replaced him by order of the Massachusetts Bay Company. Conant stepped aside and was granted 200 acres (0.81 km) of land in compensation. These “New Planters” and the “Old Planters” agreed to cooperate because of the diplomacy of Conant and Endecott. To recognize this peaceful transition to the new government, the name of the settlement was changed to Salem, the hellenized name of Shalem (שָׁלֵם), the royal city of Melchizedek, which is identified with Jerusalem.

In 1628, Endecott ordered that the Great House be moved from Cape Ann, reassembling it on Washington Street north of Church Street. Francis Higginson wrote that “we found a faire house newly built for the Governor” which was remarkable for being two stories high. A year later, the Massachusetts Bay Charter was issued creating the Massachusetts Bay Colony with Matthew Craddock as its governor in London and Endecott as its governor in the colony. John Winthrop was elected Governor in late 1629, and arrived with the Winthrop Fleet in 1630, one of the many events that began the Puritan Great Migration.

In 1639, Endecott, among others, signed the building contract for enlarging the meeting house in Town House Square for the first church in Salem. This document remains part of the town records at City Hall. He was active in the affairs of the town throughout his life. Samuel Skelton was the first pastor of the First Church of Salem, which is the original Puritan church in America. Endecott already had a close relationship with Skelton, having been converted by him, and Endecott considered him as his spiritual father.

Salem’s harbor was defended by Fort Miller in Marblehead from 1632 to 1865, and by Fort Pickering on Winter Island from 1643 to 1865. During the 17th and 18th centuries, Salem was involved in the Atlantic slave trade, surpassing Boston in terms of the town’s engagement with the triangular trade. Beginning in 1701 there was a steady political and social effort in Massachusetts to end slavery and by 1770 the practice was all but eliminated, with many slaves winning their freedom.

In 1768, Samuel Hall established Salem’s first print shop and founded The Essex Gazette Salem’s first newspaper, and the third to emerge in Massachusetts.

One of the most widely known aspects of Salem is its history of witchcraft allegations, which started with Abigail Williams, Betty Parris, and their friends playing “with a Venus glase & an Egg” to learn “what trade their sweet harts should be of.” The infamous Salem witch trials began in 1692, and 19 people were executed by hanging because of the false accusations; Giles Corey was pressed to death for refusing to plead innocent or guilty, thus avoiding the noose and instead dying an innocent man. Salem is also significant in legal history as the site of the Dorothy Talbye Trial, where a mentally ill woman was hanged for murdering her daughter because Massachusetts made no distinction at the time between insanity and criminal behavior.

William Hathorne was a prosperous entrepreneur in early Salem and became one of its leading citizens. He led troops to victory in King Philip’s War, served as a magistrate on the highest court, and was chosen as the first speaker of the House of Deputies. He was a zealous advocate of the personal rights of freemen against royal emissaries and agents. His son Judge John Hathorne came to prominence in the late 17th century when witchcraft was a serious felony. Judge Hathorne is the best known of the witch trial judges, and he became known as the “Hanging Judge” for sentencing accused witches to death.